Knoydart – the mythical inaccessible peninsula in Scotland

We set out on foot, one of only two ways to reach Knoydart, the other is by boat. Yes you

could bring a bike here but the tracks are rocky and challenging to ride. It takes a lot for me to leave a bike behind but we were opting for a stunning narrow and steep ridge route taking in two Munros.

After a day walk on the drive up we arrived late as we we followed the roller coaster road alongside Loch Arkaig having left Fort William filling up with Fish and Chips!
The narrow road alongside the loch seems to go on forever; twisting and dropping. Finally we parked up and headed off on foot when the dirt track started in Glen Dessarry. We spotted a bothy on the other side of the river:

We headed up Glen Dessary looking for a wild camp spot as the light was starting to fade. It was a perfect sunny early summer evening in the Highlands.

On the other side of the valley about four tents surrounded the MBA bothey An Chuil. A nice spot but so busy for a remote place like this!
We kept on going camping at the foot of the climb up An Eag. It was a windy night on Friday so we sheltered as best we could.
After some careful map reading the next morning we packed up and we started up An Eag to Sgurr nan Coireachan.

Sgurr nan Coireachan was a great first peak of the day, the views stunning under the clear blue sky:

We followed the ridge west towards Garbh Chioch Bheag with views out to sea and the first glimpses of the isles of Rum and Eigg along with the greater Knoydart Peninsula.

The biggest challenge of the day would be the dramatic conical peak of Sgurr na Ciche with one of the best Scottish 360 degree panorama awaiting at the top. The conical munro peak we would soon climb can be seen behind Marion on the summit of Garbh Chioch Mhor, this had to be one of the clearest days on the Scottish hills I have had. We could clearly see the Islands from Mull to the dramatic Black Cullin on Skye, then the distintive peaks of Torridon in the north, snowy tops in Glencoe and Ben Nevis in the south. Stunning!

The top of Sgurr na Ciche didn’t disappoint either:

Here is a great shot looking towards the Rum Cullin across the sea:

After descending this fifth summit of the day legs were tired and we hoped for a camp spot before we dropped down to the waters of Loch Nevis and Sourlies.

After passing a small Lochan, useful for our water on an otherwose dry ridge we decided to set up camp here:

After a nap in the sun we put up the tents and watched an awesome sunset of Loch Nevis.

The blue hour after the golden hours from our camp spot:

Then finally the moon lit up the water, the clouds hid the best of the stars along with the moonlight diluting them, but it was a special place to wild camp:

In the morning the cloud had come in over the tops as we looked out and started packing up camp, we dropped down to Loch Nevis.

The tide was out exposing the vast sand flats here:

There is also the cute but small and generally very busy Sourlies bothy here. Bring a tent if you hope to stay here would be my advice this summer!

With cloud on the summits and stiff breeze with explored the area around Camusrory and the Knoydart peninsula. It was then a walk out along the valley back to Glen Dessarry.

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